The running of the bulls lasts three minutes and the bullfight a couple of hours. For the rest of the day — which is most of it — Pamplona remains a city with centuries of history, waiting for anyone willing to look beyond Estafeta Street. Here is what's worth seeing when the commotion takes a break.
The Hemingway statue, next to the bullring
At the gates of Pamplona's bullring stands a bronze bust dedicated to Ernest Hemingway, the writer whose novel "The Sun Also Rises" (1926) put San Fermín on the world map. It's a required stop for any literature enthusiast and one of the most photographed spots of the festival.
The Walls of Pamplona
One of the best-preserved bastioned fortification complexes in Europe surrounds the old town. Walking along its ramparts and viewpoints, especially at sunset, offers views over the Arga River and the Vuelta del Castillo park, and a much-needed contrast with the atmosphere of the inner streets.
The old town, street by street
Beyond Estafeta and Plaza del Castillo, the old town hides a network of streets with a life of their own: the Cathedral of Santa María la Real, the City Hall square — the setting for the Chupinazo and the Pobre de mí closing ceremony — and the San Cernin quarter. Walking through it unhurried, outside the busy morning hours, is the best way to understand the city behind the festival.
To escape the crowds
Navarrería square, Calle San Gregorio and Calderería are central areas but considerably less crowded than Estafeta. Good Navarrese food, a good atmosphere, and plenty of room to sit down.
A sorbet with history
The Gazteluleku gastronomic society, right in the heart of the old town, is famous for its champagne sorbet, a true San Fermín tradition for cooling off between events. And if you have a sweeter, earlier-rising taste, the La Mañueta churro shop — an almost obligatory stop after the running of the bulls — has served churros for generations to those coming down from watching the race.
"San Fermín isn't just Estafeta at eight in the morning: it's also an entire city with centuries of history, waiting for anyone who stops to look at it."
Fireworks, every night
Every night of the festival, the Vuelta del Castillo park hosts the international fireworks competition. There's no need to pay for a ticket to watch: much of the city turns into an improvised viewpoint from eleven at night onward.
Keep reading
Complete your visit with our guide to fireworks and to the history of San Fermín.